Sushi is most definitely what people refer to as an acquired taste. The very thought of raw fish, vegetables and rice wrapped in sheets of reconstituted seaweed would be enough to send a lot of people running for the nearest golden arches. But for those of us who have enjoyed discovering the complex joys rendered by such jewel like treats as nigiri toro or ikura gunkan maki, Sushi has become the fast food of choice.When a friend invites you to a ‘mom & pop’ sushi joint you may wonder what to expect. However, Ichi Maki is no greasy but oh-so-good corner diner with a Japanese twist. It is, instead, a clean, faux modern, airy restaurant. As soon as you enter, the chefs, imprisoned behind their bamboo conveyer belt, and wait staff, dressed in lime green t-shirts with long black aprons, chirrup their greeting in unison. The decor is an interesting mix of what is deemed de rigour (i.e. actually restaurant fashion about 5 years ago), traditional Japanese pieces and a few too many plants. There is also a sports bar element with huge widescreen TVs both above the bar and on the back room’s wall. Unfortunately, on possibly the most important
election night in the history of America, neither was tuned to CNN so I was missing my Anderson Cooper fix.As with most sushi places the menu was vast. It included well over what seemed like 100 kinds of maki as well as lists of various specials, side dishes and sushi combos. These included sushi boats, where a selection is served in bamboo boats of various sizes depending on the number in your party. Our party opted to go for individual dishes, partly due to funds, partly because the female majority could never have decided what to include.
While we deliberated, Ester, our perky waitress, soothed the process with free miso soup and endamames, which was a nice and very welcome touch. The soup, which can often simply taste like it’s been made up from oxo cubes, was of full, warming bitterness. The endamames
were steamed to a good al dente crunch, perfect for soy sauce dipping.
Eventually, we came to our decisions. Our order was delivered in quick time, sailing out from behind the counter on a silver serving trolley. All the meals were beautifully presented, shapes created by deep fried crab’s legs on squared, patterned monochrome plates that highlight the bright, fresh colours.
Apart from getting two of the dishes mixed up, which nearly resulted in me receiving a huge, spider crab roll instead of the modest asparagus maki I had actually ordered, Ester coped well with a consistent smile. My light meal of the maki and ginger kadame, a cold seaweed salad, felt intense intimidation from the bulk items on others plates but managed to hold its own. The asparagus was fresh and tender to the bite. The salad was an interesting mix of greens with flashes of pink pickled ginger and a scattering of sesame seeds. As with most seaweed dishes its chewy texture and flavorful undertones are immediately reminiscent of the ocean. The sesame and ginger helped temper and take the taste buds in a new direction.
Once the main event was over, we were presented with cleansing orange segments and then the bill which was satisfactorily low. Others paid around $20 and my lighter version only $10.
The blandness of Ichi Maki’s decor and its uninspiring atmosphere are more than made up for by their extensive menu and good service. In short it may not be the best sushi place in the world but in the vast ocean of California’s favorite Japanese export it manages to rise above the pack.
“Miso please!”

11291 Folsom Blvd, Rancho Cordova, CA 95742, United States+1 916-635-8880